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This is an important factor that will be the reason
why you get pictures or get NO pictures at all; you
have to understand the principal and setting a trail
camera to get a good result – it is all about good
angles!
Look carefully at this photo of my camera,
this camera has a standard height (38cm) from the
ground to the WHITE DISC more commonly known as the
(Movement sensor) and if you look carefully it is
at a very slight angle towards the ground.
The camera
is
NOT
straight.
The belt and string are just the extras used to fix it
to a tree if needed
KNEE HEIGHT is generally a good height.
Placing the camera on the ground – you must first make
sure the ground that you are placing it on is level,
if it isn’t ( a very good chance) then you must work
out that after you have mounted it on a tripod or a
tree you must work out how accurately you can make the
camera appear to be looking STRAIGHT ahead, and then,
only then work out the slight angle you need to get it
to be directed towards the earth.
Now. This is another sticky subject, some cameras like
high settings on a tree looking down 45 degrees or
more or less, some prefer a lower setting and some are
easy and work any old way.
YOU MUST TRY and find out what your camera likes, by
setting it in the bush, it will take a few attempts
till you master it!
Carry
soft material in your bag so if you set a camera you
can stuff in extra thicknesses behind the camera and
the tree if needed for a better angle etc.
ALSO,
carry a small hammer and long nails in your camera
bag, IN CASE you can mount the camera on a wooden
pole that is next to a gate etc, the nails can be
knocked in to act as a stopper so the camera don’t
slide down the pole after the belt is tightened, the
nails can also help on a tree mount in some way.
The one camera I have is a 140 Moultrie camera, it
likes this 38cm setting off the ground, and at 20m the
laser when set hits the ground. I am so used to the
camera now I can set it without the laser. As long
as your angle is ok its fine and will fire. Just
practise and all will be well.
REMEMBER THIS;
When you have set your camera up, before you leave the
spot your set it at, put it on the timer, walk away to
about 8 m and when its ready to take a photo move a
little so it takes a picture ( bend down low to animal
height) and if it fires you know the camera is set
correctly and everything is ready for a day and night
of action. This way you can leave the area knowing it
is working and set correctly
Look at the picture below, the same trail camera with
my camo net cover applied.
You can clearly see the white disc (motion sensor
behind it) and the camera shutter 4 inches higher. The
disc is 38cm off the ground.
This is an example; I use a camera tripod if I can’t
get a tree or pole etc.
When you first start filming with a trail cam it will
be easy or hard to find what your specific camera
likes, but when you find it’s secret – boy it is a
bunch of fun!
Generally in my opinion if you get a camera to fire at
12m at night that is ample, perfect - and the same for
the day hours.
The nice thing about a trail cam is, if you have an
area on a farm, the area has hard ground and you
cannot work out what walks around because of hard
ground you cant see spoor or tracks, THEN this trail
cam will answer all your questions!
As long as it is set correctly!
You cannot just put a camera at a spot and expect
photos – NO!
ANGLE
– DISTANCE – HEIGHT are the keys to
successful camera results.
REMEMBER CAMERA PLACEMENT IS VITAL FOR GOOD
RESULTS!!!! Here are a few links;
SEE HERE;
http://www.africanpredator.com/art_jackal-hunting-secret.html
AND
http://www.africanpredator.com/art_trailcam.html
Once you master the angle, distance, height and
mounting a new world will open up to you, a trail
camera can tell you so much about your farm!
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