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Night Vision And Lens Trials;
Here are a few things I thought to mention regarding
the NV set up. A few things that may help you achieve
best results.
To start lets just say it is OBVIOUS that to achieve
better NV we must hunt on moon nights, the more moon
the more we see. BUT
this is about hunting with NO MOON.
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When I started experimenting with NV it occurred to me
I need to try a lot of different styles, so, first I
made this below. I made
this from a tablet plastic bottle top and put in 4 red
lenses above a SURE-FIRE torch G2.

However, this is NOT necessary;
the slightly larger lens diameter compared to the
Sure-fire 30mm is not worth the effort in making this
lens holder, the red lens you build in a Sure-fire
will work equally as well.
Below is the finished lens in its
tablet bottle holder,
although it looks DAMN GOOD,
it’s not worth the trouble at all, rather just
fit a small 30mm lens into the Sure-fire on top. I put
in 3 red lenses. And the beam it throws will help you
get distance on NO MOON; I will claim that I can see a
jackal approaching at over 200m with this set up. But
here we are using a RED lens not IR. ( not Infrared).
Using the red will not only give your NV longer range
but will help you light up incoming eyes fast!
REMEMBER ON MOON NIGHTS WE DON’T NEED EXTRA IR LENSES,
THE MOON DOES THAT JOB! - I love hunting on a quarter
moon for jackal with NV, you see nicely!

The finished lens; -- Rather just fit a small lens (3)
into the Sure-fire, it is just as good.

This is what I will suggest if you are hunting
SEVERE EDUCATED JACKAL
– slim jakkalse or let us call them Kakalse,
don’t use ANY red lights, just fit an infra red lens,
use a developed film that’s black with no photo on it,
this is top class infra red. This is a secret not
often divulged by night hunters, you don’t hear many
of them or see many of them giving trade secrets away,
but this is a money saver, this will cost you ZERO to
make up. Imported infra red will cost $90 plus.
Fit 2 lenses
to the Sure-fire light, and it will just throw a very
soft dull light at the end, it will TO THE HUMAN EYE
only throw a light about 2 inches, BUT look with it on
your Sure-fire with the Night Vision and it lights up
FAR! My Meteor and this IR lens, gives me over 250m of
vision at night to see an incoming predator, easily
Jackal very educated and wary of red lights – USE the
IR system.
Jackal normal hunting – Use the tiny red light on the
NV binoculars.
This is a picture of two of my Sure-Fire lights; one
is a G2 with 2 batteries and the other a 9P that takes
3 batteries, I use 2
infra red lenses on these models, and if hunting normal jackal not
educated I fit the light with
3
red lenses above the
NV Meteor binoculars.

Hunting like this is AMAZING, what you can see at
night is superb, and a jackal that’s slim, man he has
no idea you are even around.
When I went out testing these various styles my wife
said as she looked through the NV the first time with
the photographic infra red, she said “ man that’s
amazing, I can see the sheep clearly at that gate” the
gate was 140m from us. That’s pretty much top class
quality, no ways will you need to see longer range at
night anyway
PERSONAL COMMENT
As far as I am concerned, for jackal calling, this is
what you DO NEED. You need to spot eyes running
towards you from at least 200m, follow them in, and at
120m and closer be able to easily identify the animal
and what’s going on, with this set up, my Meteor
provides me with that easily. For normal jackal
hunting I use a built in tiny 3 red filter set up, for
educated jackals, I use NO red filter, just an
infrared filter, these both enable me to see at the
above ranges and more, and if a moon night, I just use
the Meteor on its own, without any extra enhancer at
all.
Here below are a few pics showing the different lenses
I tried, I settled with the top picture with built in
red lens for normal jackal hunting, the educated
jackals I used NO red, just the infra red.

This is with built in red lens –
3 lenses – (if
I fit one or two it’s far toooooooo bright.)
This is with an experimental bigger red lens,
it was decided
against, as it gives the exact same field
of view as the smaller built in one, and the built in
one looks better also……

Generally, I say the two words below in blue – after
you have hunted like this, you will wonder how you
ever hunted at night before with other bigger systems,
being able to call at night using no lights is
amazing, and when you pick up those eyes coming in,
you know he has no idea you are even around.
TRY IT!
Remember the batteries that a NV takes and also Sure-
fires are expensive, so I use a re charger for the
Sure-fire lights, this way it lasts much longer and is
also a lot cheaper !!!
For the guys who don’t believe the above, read this
taken from a professional forum on photography. I
include a link to read more.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=162221
It is the 6th
post down on the page- read it all.
Re: InfraRed Torches
An old photographers trick is to use a piece of film
as an IR filter.
You need a frame of film that has been developed but
not exposed to light, so either a frame shot with
the lens cap on or a bit of film near the end of the
roll.

This is my set up with the Infrared lens and a funnel
fitted, the funnel just allows the infrared to be
thrown forward more other than lighting up the sides,
the funnel just helps contain the light thrown.
However this is a personal thing, if its off then you
see a bigger picture through your binoculars.
Little things like this you learn as you start using
these technics, I am VERY HAPPY with this set up, and
it is far better than 2nd generation stuff, if I can
see a jackal clearly at 160m I am happy.
I cant express this enough,
if you have hunted jackal for years, and now you see
these articles on night vision, and you buy a set up
like this, all I can say is after the first time you
switch it on, and you see what you can see in total
darkness, you will be amazed and you too will say “
Man what have I been missing all these years, why did
I waste my time using red lights, this is far better”
and for educated jackals, well they wont know you are
even around.
A trick I like is, set up at a place jackal or lynx
have killed an animal, sit 100m away from it, and sit
ground level with a clear view, wait for them to come
back and kill them dead – just observe with the night
vision. Just watch the wind for jackal.

Man I love my night vision, it was expensive at first,
but after a few dead jackals, the unit has paid for
itself, to use quality stuff is great, the Meteor is
credited as the BEST night vision binocular in its
class, and now that I have customised this unit with a
stronger illuminator etc, it is now far better than
2nd generation.
Building an enhancer provides you with far better
performance from a night vision binoculars. As I said
before, if you use the moon to assist you with natural
light at night you will see very well from a quarter
moon till full moon, excellent in fact, but when we
hunt with no moon we need to find ways to help us get
light from other sources, and using this kind of
system above will help wonders.
Just a word of advice, remember if you are hunting in
an area that you tell other hunters you are around, as
they wont see you sitting in a field and it could
cause an accident especially if they decide to
discharge rifles in your direction.
Also remember using night vision with infra red light
enhancers is not able to be seen by other people, the
beam it throws unlike a red light, an infra red light
is invisible to a human, BUT can be seen if somebody
else is also using a night vision binocular, monocular
or night vision scope near you.
MY CHARGER FOR THE BATTERY
Here is a photo of the charger I use, it is a two
battery charger. So, I save a little money by not
having to buy 123’s as they get expensive at R50-00 a
throw. They make a 2 cell battery charger, not a 3, as
the Surefires with 2 batterys are far more poular than
the 3 cell ones.

If you want a recharger or more info on Surefire
lights, drop Doug a mail and visit his website at
www.surefiresa.co.za e mail Dougie le Roux
dougie@surefiresa.co.za
He can advise you on what you need, but I use a G2
with a bulb NOT a LED,
and a 9P, these two models are excellent for night
hunting. Speak to Doug, he is a really nice guy,
friendly and has fast service, and that is something
in SA. Extra rechargable batterys ( 2 of them for a G2
will cost R50). A recharger will set you back R275-00
including overnight courier. The G2 will cost about
R570-00.
Here are
5 other links to
my site that cover night hunts with Surefire lights; I
love to discuss night hunting with night vision,
as I said before
after you try this you will wonder how the heck you
ever hunted without it before. Regarding
a charge, after I have charged the battery to its
limit, it gives me a reading of 4,97. When the charge
is low it burns RED,
and at full charge the recharger will show
GREEN.
http://www.africanpredator.com/artjackelsec.html
http://www.africanpredator.com/windmill_calling.html
http://www.africanpredator.com/artnightvision.html
http://www.africanpredator.com/art_infra_red_lense.html
http://www.africanpredator.com/art_night_vision.html
*********TO THE GUYS HUNTING PIGS
AT NIGHT – MAN, ALL I CAN SUGGEST IS TO GET YOURSELF A
SET OF NIGHT VISION !!!!!
YOU WILL WONDER HOW YOU EVER HUNTED WITHOUT IT
BEFORE!!!!
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Night Vision Binoculars –
Mike Daykin
Daytronik Solutions
PO Box 11346,
Queenswood 0121, South Africa
Tel: 012 333 6616
Int: +27 12 333 6616
Fax: 086 679 6616
Int: +27 12 333 6945
Mike Daykin
Email:
sales@daytronik.co.za
Web:
http://www.daytronik.co.za
Surefire Lights –
Dougie Le Roux
BLOEMFONTEIN
0514464496
0832640209
www.surefire.co.za
dougie@surefiresa.co.za








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